Click
here to return to the "Matterhorn Ascent " Trip
Description
Matterhorn Ascent - Day-to-Day Itinerary:
2 Days of mountaineering
For
our Matterhorn ascents we usually either use the route via the
'Hoernli Ridge' or the 'Lion's Ridge' from Italy, which can also
be done as a traverse, descending to Zermatt and Switzerland after
reaching the summit.
The Italian normal route (Lion's ridge) has the advantage of a
shorter route from the Carrel hut (12,562 ft), to the Matterhorn
summit, (14,688 ft) than the swiss normal route (Hornli ridge)
starting at Hörnli hut (10,695 ft).
In addition the atmosphere is much more convivial and cordial
with the Italian guides, and the route is much less crowded.
However, the Lion's ridge involves two long, strenuous days of
climbing with a heavier backpack as the Carrel hut is self-catered.
The Italian and Swiss normal routes have the same level of difficulty,
AD.
Ascent via the 'Hoernli Ridge':
Day 1:
Meeting with the guide in town around mid-morning for a trip briefing,
equipment check and possibly lunch together. Gondola ride via
Furi to Schwarzsee, followed by a approx. 2-hour hike to the Hörnli
hut (elev. 3,260 m/10,695 ft). Often, we spend the remaining hour
or so to warm up on the first few meters of the climb in the afternoon
and descent again, since the lower part of the route requires
climbing in the dark early the next morning.
Day
2:
The Matterhorn climb is steep and exciting for 1200m vertical
(4000 ft) all the way in technical terrain along the ridge that
divides the impressive north from the east face. Most of the climbing
will be "on a short rope", however there are also some sections
up to grade 5.5 that are commonly being pitched out, namely the
slabs below the Solveigh Hut emergency shelter, which you'll pass
2/3 up the mountain.
Above, the route steepens and fixed ropes help over sections that
would otherwise rate 5.7 (UIAA 5). Ideally the rock is dry and
the crampons are only required for a few shorter sections, namely
for the "Dach", the last 15 min to the summit. However, after
storms or early in the season, crampons might be necessary for
most of the climb, which increases the level of difficulty substantially.
With a wake up time at 4 AM, 5 -6 hours are usually budgeted for
the ascent and 4 to 5 hrs for the descent. These timelines are
generally strictly adhered to, as the height and the isolated
position of the Matterhorn create its own micro-climate, which
promotes clouds and afternoon thunderstorms and severe weather.
Clients must be able to climb fast and efficient and a high level
of attentiveness is required for the entire climb.
Return to the Hoernli Hut around 2 to 3 PM for a quick break and
commonly we descend back to Zermatt via Schwarzsee gondola.
Ascent
via the 'Lion's Ridge':
Day
1:
From
Zermatt we take the Schwarzsee cable car up, then we cross over
the Furggjoch (3271m-10730ft) into Italy. A descend of approx.
1500ft brings us to the Abruzzi hut, where we stop for a quick
bite to eat and to rest.
Another 1000m-ascent will get us to the Carrel hut, where we will
be staying for the night.
The Carrel hut is self-catered, which means we will have to carry
cooking utensils and food for that
evening and the next day. Since we won't come back the same way,
we will have to carry everything with us on our ascent of the
Matterhorn.
This is a very long day in comparison with the ascent to the Hoernli
hut, however, the Carrel hut is situated higher and is less crowded,
which makes the summit day less vertical to climb.
Day 2:
After
a fairly early wake-up call we will head out the door, up the
Lion's Ridge.
You first follow the south side of the ridge and reach the Tyndall
rope via the "mauvais pas", "rocher des écritures"
and the "sheet". We climb to the ridge, follow it as
far as the "cravatte" and continue to the Pic Tyndall.
From here you cross the Tyndall ridge to the "enjambée"
in order to reach the Col Félicité. The summit pyramid
is climbed as far as the "balcony" with the help of
fixed ropes and the Giordano ladder. From the "balcony" you climb to the summit.
Descent via Hoernli ridge, as above.
|
