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Matterhorn Ascent - Day-to-Day Itinerary:
2 Days of mountaineering

For our Matterhorn ascents we usually either use the route via the 'Hoernli Ridge' or the 'Lion's Ridge' from Italy, which can also be done as a traverse, descending to Zermatt and Switzerland after reaching the summit.

The Italian normal route (Lion's ridge) has the advantage of a shorter route from the Carrel hut (12,562 ft), to the Matterhorn summit, (14,688 ft) than the swiss normal route (Hornli ridge) starting at Hörnli hut (10,695 ft).
In addition the atmosphere is much more convivial and cordial with the Italian guides, and the route is much less crowded.
However, the Lion's ridge involves two long, strenuous days of climbing with a heavier backpack as the Carrel hut is self-catered.
The Italian and Swiss normal routes have the same level of difficulty, AD.

Ascent via the 'Hoernli Ridge':
Day 1:
After a relaxing, hearty breakfast, we will take the Schwarzsee cable car up from Zermatt, followed by a approx. 2-hour hike to the Hörnli hut (elev. 3,260 m/10,695 ft). The rest of the day is spent at the hut and exploring the lower part of the ridge, since the lower part of the route requires climbing in the dark early the next morning.
Day 2:
The Matterhorn climb is steep and exciting for 1200m vertical (4000 ft) all the way in technical terrain along the ridge that divides the impressive north from the east face. Most of the climbing will be "on a short rope", however there are also some sections up to grade 5.5 that are commonly being pitched out, namely the slabs below the Solveigh Hut emergency shelter, which you'll pass 2/3 up the mountain.
Above, the route steepens and fixed ropes help over sections that would otherwise rate 5.7 (UIAA 5). Ideally the rock is dry and the crampons are only required for a few shorter sections, namely for the "Dach", the last 15 min to the summit. However, after storms or early in the season, crampons might be necessary for most of the climb, which increases the level of difficulty substantially.
With a wake up time at 4 AM, 5 -6 hours are usually budgeted for the ascent and 4 to 5 hrs for the descent. These timelines are generally strictly adhered to, as the height and the isolated position of the Matterhorn create its own micro-climate, which promotes clouds and afternoon thunderstorms and severe weather.
Clients must be able to climb fast and efficient and a high level of attentiveness is required for the entire climb.
Return to the Hoernli Hut around 2 to 3 PM for a quick break and commonly we descend back to Zermatt via Schwarzsee gondola.



Ascent via the 'Lion's Ridge':
Day 1:
From Zermatt we take the Schwarzsee cable car up, then we cross over the Furggjoch (3271m-10730ft) into Italy. A descend of approx. 1500ft brings us to the Abruzzi hut, where we stop for a quick bite to eat and to rest.
Another 1000m-ascent will get us to the Carrel hut, where we will be staying for the night.
The Carrel hut is self-catered, which means we will have to carry cooking utensils and food for that evening and the next day. Since we won't come back the same way, we will have to carry everything with us on our ascent of the Matterhorn.
This is a very long day in comparison with the ascent to the Hoernli hut, however, the Carrel hut is situated higher and is less crowded, which makes the summit day less vertical to climb.
Day 2:
After a fairly early wake-up call we will head out the door, up the Lion's Ridge.
You first follow the south side of the ridge and reach the Tyndall rope via the "mauvais pas", "rocher des écritures" and the "sheet". We climb to the ridge, follow it as far as the "cravatte" and continue to the Pic Tyndall. From here you cross the Tyndall ridge to the "enjambée" in order to reach the Col Félicité. The summit pyramid is climbed as far as the "balcony" with the help of fixed ropes and the Giordano ladder. From the "balcony" you climb to the summit.
Descent via Hoernli ridge, as above.